Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. I’m going to show you how to recreate the
cover art of a “Red Dead” action-adventure, video game. The theme I’ll be using in this tutorial is
ancient Rome, however, you can apply the same techniques to whatever theme you’d like. I’ll be using photos of gladiators that I
downloaded from Shutterstock. I provided a paper texture, a font called,
“Chinese Rocks” that resembles the Red Dead font and a crisscross brush stroke, if you’d
like to use it. For your theme, open a high-resolution photo
of your main character that and another photo you’ll use for secondary action characters. The techniques we’ll be using this tutorial
will be the same no matter what theme and images you choose to use. First, we’ll create a new document by going
to File and New or by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + N. Make its Width: 1920 pixels…its Height:
1080 pixels and its Resolution: 150 pixels per inch. The Color Mode is RGB and 8 bits per Channel. Click the “Background Contents” box and in
the hexadecimal field, type in: B50824. Then, click OK and “Create” or you can press
Enter or Return twice. Next, we’ll separate our characters from their
backgrounds, by making selections around characters. There are many ways to do this and the method
you choose should depend on the characteristics of the particular photo your using. In this particular case, I’ll use the “Quick
Selection Tool”. If you’re using this tool as well, I find
that a radius of approximately 10 pixels generally works well for most images. Drag the tool inside the character to select it. To remove selections outside the character, press and hold Alt or Option as you drag over those areas. To check the selection, press “Q” on your keyboard. Then, revert it back into a selection by pressing “Q” again. The selection itself doesn’t have to be feathered, so there’s no need to use Refine Edge or and Mask.Select Click the Layer Mask icon to make a layer
mask of the selection. We’ll convert our image into a Smart Object,
so we can modify it non-destructively. To do this, click the icon at the upper, right
and click “Convert to Smart Object”. We’ll place it onto the red background document
that we created earlier by pressing “v” to pen our Move Tool and dragging it onto the
tab of the red document. Without releasing our mouse or pen, drag it
down and release. To resize and reposition it, open your Transform
Tool by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. To reposition your subject, just drag it. To resize it, make sure the chain-link icon
is active between the Transform’s width and height. This links them together. Drag the “W” or the “H” to the right or left
to increase or decrease the size of your character. Once you sized and positioned it to your liking,
press Enter or Return. Go to Filter, Stylize and Oil Paint. If you’re using a version earlier than CC,
the Oil Paint filter is located here. If you’re using Windows and the filter is
grayed out, it may be because your Operating System and/or your version of Photoshop isn’t 64-bit. Another reason may be because your Graphics
processor isn’t being used. To check it, go to Edit, Predferences and
Performance. Make sure “Use Graphics Processor” is checked. Make the Stylization: 3.5…the Cleanliness:
5…the Scale: 3…and the Bristle Detail: 10. The Lighting is unchecked. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and click “Posterize”. Give it 3 “levels”. Because Adjustment Layers affect all the layers
below them in the Layers panel, our red background is also being affected. We want just our subject to be posterized
and not the background. To do this, click the Clipping Mask icon or
press Alt + Ctrl + G on Windows or Option + Cmd + G on a Mac. You can also tgo to Layer and “Create Clipping Mask. Open the “Adjustments” panel. If you don’t see it, go to Window and “Adjustments”. Click the “Gradient Map” icon. Click the gradient bar to open the Gradient Editor. Click the lower, left Stop and the color box. Pick black and click OK or press Enter or Return. Click below the bar to create a new Stop. In the “Location” field, type in 10. Click the box and type in: 882C13. Click below the bar again and for its Location, type in 20. Click the box and type in: BE001A. Click below the bar and type in 30. Click the box and type in: F86343. Click below the bar and type in 60. Click the box and type in: FAC28F. Click OK on both windows or press Enter or
Return twice. Clip the Adjustment layer to the subject. To save space in the Layers panel, let’s group
all the layers that comprise our main character into a folder. To do this, Shift-click the subject to make
it and the other adjustment layer active as well and press Ctrl or Cmd + G. I’ll name
it, “Main character”. Click the red background to make it active
and open the crisscross brush strokes I provided. Drag it onto the tab of our Red Dead cover
art and without releasing your mouse or pen, drag it down and release. Then, position it under your subject. Double-click the crisscross to open its Layer
Style window. Click “Color Overlay” and the color box. Pick a color for it. Keep in mind, you can always change it later. Since I already know the color I want, I’ll
type it in: FFC000. Open the paper texture I provided and drag
it onto the tab of the cover art. Without releasing your mouse or pen, press
and hold the Shift key as you drag it down and release. Holding Shift kept the texture centered over
the cover art. Change its Blend Mode to “Multiply”. Next, we’ll add the title of our video game. Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer. Open your Horizontal Type Tool. Since we want white to be our foreground color,
invert the colors by pressing “x” on your keyboard. Open your Type Picker. Assuming you already installed the “Chinese
Rocks” font I provided, find it in your list of fonts and click it. We’ll adjust its size in a moment. Make the aliasing, “Sharp”, and center alignment. Click on your document and type out the words,
“RED DEAD”. To adjust its size, highlight the text and
drag the size icon to the right or left. To reposition it, open your Move Tool and move it. Press “T” to open your back your Type Tool
and click just to the right of your last character. Press Enter or Return to start a second line
of text, and type out the name of the theme of your Red Dead video game. Highlight it and drag the size icon to adjust
its size. To adjust the space between your lines of
text, click the “Character/Paragraph” icon or go to Window and “Character”. Drag the “Baseline Shift” icon to the right
or left to raise or lower your bottom text. You can choose to keep a white color for the
name of your theme or to have the red color of the Red Dead game titles. If want the latter, click the box and type
in: B50824. Click the “fx” icon and click “Stroke”. The color is black, the size is 21 pixels
and the Position is “Outside”. For the words, “Rockstar Games presents”,
click above your text to create a new text layer. Drag it a little above the words, “Red Dead”. I’ll pick “Bebas Neue”. If you’d like to use it, I provided its link, as well. Drag the size icon to the left to make the
text smaller. Type out the words and open your Move Tool
and drag it into position. Click the “fx” icon and click “Stroke”. Make the size: 13 pixels. Reposition it if you need to. Highlight the word, “Presents”, click the box and type in the same red color as you used for the theme of your game. Then, open your Move Tool. Shift-click the bottom text to make it active, as well, and convert the two text layers into one Smart Object. We can close the character/paragraph panels now. Next, we’ll add texture to our text. Make the paper texture layer active and make
a copy of it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + J. Drag it above the title and invert its color
by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + I. Clip it to the title and desaturate its color by pressing
Ctrl or Cmd + Shift + U. We’ll brighten it by clicking the Adjustment
Layer icon and clicking, “Levels”. Then, clip it to our title. In the Input White Level, type in 30. Make the crisscross active and make a copy of it. Trash its color overlay and open the Transform Tool. Press Ctrl or Cmd + 0 to fit the Transform’s
bounding box onto your canvas. Drag it under the title. To resize it, go to a corner and when you
see a diagonal, double-arrow, press and hold Alt or Option + Shift as you drag it in or out. To angle it, go back to a corner and when
you see a curved, double-arrow, just rotate it. When its sized, positioned and angled to your
liking, press Enter or Return. To fit your document back onto the canvas,
press Ctrl or Cmd + 0 or you can size it incrementally, by pressing Ctrl or Cmd and the “plus” key
on your keyboard. Lastly, we’ll add secondary action figures
to our cover art. Open the secondary characters. We’ll make a selection around our characters. In this particular case, since the background
is a solid color, I’ll use the Magic Wand Tool. If you’re using this tool, as well, make sure
the “Add To” icon is active to ensure that every area you click on will be added to the selection. Check “Contiguous”, which selects a shape
with contiguous pixels of the same color. This prevents most, if not all of the subject
from being selected. The Tolerance sets the range of contiguous colors. I’ll set it to 10. Click the background including the closed
off areas between the arms and legs. Invert the selection by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + Shift + I. Press “D” to revert your foreground and background colors to their default colors of black and white respectively. Make a new layer and fill the selection with
black by pressing Alt or Option + Delete. Reduce its opacity to 90%, so we can slightly
see the characters through it. Make a composite snapshot of your image by
pressing Alt + Ctrl + Shift + E on Windows or Option + Cmd + Shift + E on a Mac. Press Ctrl or Cmd + J to cut and copy the
characters to its own layer. Drag the layer to the tab of our Red Dead
cover, drag it down and release. Open your Transform Tool to resize and position
it. Lastly, we’ll fade out some areas of the characters. Click the Layer mask icon to make a layer
mask next to the characters. Open your Brush Tool and Brush Picker. Pick a soft, round brush. We’ll adjust the size in a moment. Make its Hardness: 0% and its Opacity: 50%. Its Flow is 100%. Press the right or left bracket keys to adjust
your brush’s size. Then, brush over some of the edges to hide. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!
Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV.
I’m going to show you how to create your own vintage, Wanted poster from the “wild west”.
This tutorial is an update to one I did on an earlier version of Photoshop. I provided
this template, so you can follow along. Its link is located in the video description or
project files. It includes a weathered, wood plank background…the base for our poster…distressed,
paper texture…four, antique nail heads…ornamental borders and a cartouche. In addition, I provided
links to the fonts that I’ll be using in this video. To make the white disappear that
surrounds the cartouche, change the Blend Mode to Multiply. Reduce its opacity to 80%.
Make the “Borders” layer active and reduce its opacity also to 80%. Make the “Nail head” layer active. Click the “fx” icon
and click Bevel Emboss. The Style is Inner Bevel, the Technique: Smooth and the Depth
is 100%. The Direction is Up and the Size is 2 pixels. Uncheck Global Light, make the
Angle minus 40 degrees and keep the Angle: 30 degrees. Make the Highlight Mode: Linear
Dodge and the Opacity: 30%. Make the Shadow’s opacity: 0. Click Drop Shadow. Change the
Blend Mode to Linear Burn and its Opacity: 40%. Make sure “Global Light” is checked and
make the Angle: 135 degrees. Make the Distance: 3 pixels and the Size: 5 pixels. Then, click
OK. Make the paper texture active, change its Blend Mode to Multiply and reduce its opacity to 85%. Make the Base layer active and double-click an empty area of the layer
to open its Layer Style window. Click Bevel & Emboss. Make the Size: 3 pixels and the
Highlight opacity: 50%. Change the Shadow’s blend mode to Linear Burn and its opacity
to 50%, as well. Click Inner Glow. Click the color box and pick Black. Then, click OK. Change
the Blend Mode to Color Burn and its Opacity to 60%. Make the Noise: 20% and the Size:
68 pixels. Then, click OK. Next, we’ll add the photo. To save space in the Layers panel,
click the small, black triangles next to the “fx” icons to collapse the effects. The effects
are still there; they’re just hidden from view. Make the Cartouche layer active. Above
this layer, we’ll place our photo. First, open your Rectangular Marquee Tool and drag
a rectangular selection centered between the borders. Open a photo you’d like to place
into your Wanted poster. I downloaded this one from Shutterstock.com. To get it into
your Wanted poster, press “v” to open your Move Tool and drag it up onto the tab of the
poster. Without releasing your computer mouse or pen, drag it down onto the image and release. Click the Layer Mask icon to make a layer mask of the selection next to your photo. Think of the layer mask as a stencil. The white area reveals the image, while the black
masks it out. To reposition and resize your photo, click off the chain link between the
photo and the layer mask. Now, we can reposition or resize either the photo or the layer mask
independently of each other. Since we want to reposition the photo, make the photo active.
Drag it to a position you like. If you want to resize it, press Ctrl or Cmd + T to open
your Transform Tool. Go to a corner and when you see a diagonal, double-arrow, press and
hold Alt or Option + Shift as you drag it in or out. Position the face, then press Enteror Return. Next, we’ll colorize it, add grain and adjust its brightness and contrast.. Double-click
the thumbnail of your photo to open its Layer Style window. Click Color Overlay and the
color box. Type in D7BF96. Then, click OK. Change the Blend Mode to Color and click OK. Go to Filter and Filter Gallery. Open the Texture folder and click Grain. Make the Grain
Type: “Enlarged”. I’m using 25 for the Intensity and 50 for the Contrast, however, depending
on the characteristics of your photo, you may want to adjust theses amounts until your
photo looks similar to this. Then, click OK. If there are areas of your photo that are
brighter than the paper, we need to darken them. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and
click Levels. Click the Clipping Mask icon to clip or restrict the Levels adjustment
layer to effect just the one layer beneath it in the Layers panel. For this photo, I’ll
brighten the Input Midtones to 1.48. Keep in mind, for your photo, you may want to use
different amounts to get the combination of brightness and contrast that looks good to
you. I’ll darken the Output highlights until the brightest areas of the photo match the
brightness of the paper. To make the black areas a bit less dense, I’ll drag the Output
Shadows a bit to the right. To consolidate more space in the Layers panel, group the face and its adjustment layer into a folder. To do this, Shift-click on the thumbnail of
the face to highlight both layers. Then, press Ctrl or Cmd + G. Let’s name it “Face”. Group
the paper texture and the base into a folder using the same steps and name it “Paper”.
Make the Face folder active to place our text above it. Open your Horizontal Type Tool and
go to Window and Character. The Character panel will open. For the word “Wanted”, I’ll
use “Regulators Condensed”. If you want to use the same fonts as I’m using, open it and
click on the font. Make the size: 70 points and make sure its Horizontal & Vertical Scales
are 100%. Click on your document and type “Wanted”. To reposition it, open your Move
Tool and move it. Click below the word and for next text, choose “The Dead Saloon Regular”.
For the Vertical Scale, type in 48 to squeeze the text vertically and type the word “DEAD”.
Press the Space bar three times and type the word, “ALIVE”. We pressed the Space bar to
make room between the two words for the word “OR”. To resize it, click the Move Tool and
open your Transform Tool. Go to a corner, press and hold Alt or Option + Shift and drag
it in until it’s approximately the same width as the word, “Wanted”. Then, center it and
press Enter or Return. Press “T” to open your Type Tool and click below the cartouche. Type
the word, “OR”. Click the Move Tool and open your Transform Tool. Go to the middle,
right side of your Transform and press and hold Ctrl + Alt + Shift on Windows or Cmd
+ Option + Shift on a Mac as you drag the Transform up to skew it from its center anchor
point. Then, reduce its size and position it to fit comfortably between the words, “Dead”
and “Alive”. Open your Type Tool and click below the cartouche. In this area, we’ll type
in a name. For this example, I’ll make the Vertical Scale: 100%, the Horizontal Scale:
170 and the Size: 21 points. For your name, play with these amounts to fit your text comfortably.
Press Enter or Return and type out your text. Open your Move Tool to center it. Open your Type Tool and click below your photo. In this area, we’ll type in the reward. For the font,
I’ll use “Saddlebag Regular”. I’ll make its Size: 46 points and its Horizontal Scale:
44%. Press Enter or Return and type out your text. As before, open your Move Tool to center it. Let’s group all the text into its own folder using the same steps as you used earlier. Let’s name the folder, “Text”. Reduce the opacity to 90%. Now, all the text that’s inside
the folder has an opacity of 90%. We can close the Character panel, now. Next, we’ll add scratches to the poster. First, let’s group the text, face, cartouche and borders into
one folder, since these are the elements that we’ll be adding scratches to. Use the same
steps as you used earlier. Click the Layer Mask icon to make a layer mask next to the folder. We’ll be adding scratches to the layer mask, which will reveal the background through
the scratches. Open your Brush Tool and open your brush thumbnails. Click the gear icon
to open your list of Brush Presets. I included “Marks and scratches” for you to download
into your Brush Preset folder. If your not sure how to install brushes into Photoshop,
watch my tutorial showing how to do this. When you see this window, click OK to replace
the current set of brushes with Marks and Scratches. To make the thumbnails appear bigger,
click the gear icon and click, “Large Thumbnail”. You can try the various scratches, however,
I’ll click the first one and make its size 1700 pixels. Move your brush over your poster
and left-click on your mouse or pen. If you don’t like the position of the scratches,
undo it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + Z. Once you’ve added your scratches, click the Move Tool to make your cursor easier to see. Click off the eyeball of the background to temporarily
hide the layer. We’ll make a composite snapshot of just your poster by pressing Ctrl + Shift
+ Alt + E on Windows or Cmd + Shift + Option + E on a Mac. Since we have the composite
snapshot, we can hide its source layers. Next, we’ll add a drop shadow to the poster. Double-click
on an empty area of the poster layer to open its Layer Style window. Click Drop Shadow.
Change the Blend Mode to Linear Burn and make the Opacity: 25%. Make the Distance: 8 pixels
and the Size: 10 pixels. Then, click OK. Make the Background visible and open your Transform
Tool. Click the “Warp” icon. This divides your Transform into sections that can be manipulated to warp the shape under it. Place your cursor on the middle of the top line and drag it in a little. Repeat this on the middle of the right side, the middle of the left side
and middle of the bottom line. Then, press Enter or Return. This is Marty from Blue Lightning
TV. Thanks for watching!
Articles, Blog
Photoshop Tutorial: How to Design a Classic, Vintage, Tourism Poster
December 4, 2019
Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV.
Tourism posters from the 1930s and 40s were powerful, beautifully crafted images that
embodied clean shapes, bold, vibrant colors and iconic images. I created this one and
will show you how to create your own custom poster using the techniques in this tutorial.
You can use your own photo, however, for the purpose of this tutorial, I provided this
image, so you can follow along. Its link is in the video’s description or project files.
The first step is to adjust its brightness and contrast. Press Ctrl or Cmd + Shift +
L to invoke Auto-tone, which maximizes the tonal range in each channel to produce a more
dramatic correction. Next, we’ll crop it to a specific aspect ratio and size. Open your Crop Tool. At the top, open the Width, Height and Resolution. Click the “Clear” button. In the Resolution field, type
in 300 pixels per inch. This resolution is high enough to ensure that your image will
be sharp if you decide to print it. Uncheck “Delete Cropped Pixels” and click the checkmark to accept it. Go to Image and Image Size. Notice the resolution is 300 pixels per inch.
Make sure the mode is “Inches” and make sure the chain-link is locked, which locks its
aspect ratio. Choose a Width or Height that you want for your poster. In this case, I’d
like my poster to be 16 inches wide. Its Height automatically adjusts to the width. Since
I want my poster’s height to be 10 inches; not 12, I’ll click Cancel and in the Width
field, I’ll type in 16 and for the Height, I’ll type in 10. Drag your image to a position
wher you want it cropped and make sure there’s enough room for your text. At the top, check
“Delete Cropped Pixels” and click the checkmark. To check its size, go back to Image and Image Size. The Width and Height of your image is now cropped to your specifications. It’s always a good idea to make a copy of your image or convert it into a Smart Object . In this case, we’ll make a copy of it. Presss Ctrl or Cmd + J. Go to Filter and Filter Gallery. To see your entire image, reduce its size until you do. Open the Artistic folder and
click “Cutout”. I’ll make the number of Levels: 8, the Edge Simplicity: 6 and the Edge Fidelity”:
1, however, feel free to experiment with these amounts to get the combination that looks good to you. If you want to make the sky into a smooth gradient, first, open your Magic Wand Tool. Make sure “Contiguous” is checked and make the Tolerance: 45. Click
anywhere on the sky. To include areas that didn’t get selected, Shift-click on them to
add them to your selection. Press “Q” on your keyboard to convert the selection into a quick
mask to make sure your entire sky is included. Then, press “Q” again to revert it back into a selection. Open your Gradient Tool. Click the Linear Gradient icon and the Gradient
bar to open the Gradient Editor. . Click the lower, left Stop and the color box, which
opens the Color Picker. Click the bluest area of the sky to pick up its color. To make it
a bit richer, click the top and to the right in the color window and click OK. Click the
lower, right Stop, the color box and this time, click on the bottom of the sky. Then,
click OK on both windows. Go to the top of your document and press and hold Shift as
you drag a straight line to the bottom of the sky. To deselect it, press Ctrl or Cmd
+ D. Next, we’ll start adding text. I’ll be using these retro fonts in this poster. If
you’d like to use them, I provided their links, as well. Open your Horizontal Type Tool. Since
the first character of my word will be here, I’ll click here on my document and make sure
the Left alignment icon is highlighted. Choose a font. I’ll use “DecoTech TL Regular”. Don’t
be concerned about its size at the moment. Type your first word. To change its color,
highlight your text and click the color box to open the color picker. I’ll click on a
color in my poster to use for this word. Then, I’ll click OK. To enlarge your word, click
your Move Tool and open your Transform Tool by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. Drag it to a
general position and go to a corner. When you see a diagonal, double-arrow, press and
hold Shift as you drag it out to a size you like. Pressing Shift retains its aspect ratio.
When you like its size and position, press Enter or Return. Double-click on an empty area of your Type layer to open its Layer Style window. Click “Stroke” and the color
box. Click a color on your poster that you’d like or your Stroke and click OK. I’ll make its size: 14 pixels. Keep in mind, you may want to use different amounts than I’m using in this tutorial, especially if you’re using other fonts or another image that has a different size and resolution. I’ll make the Position: Center and click OK. Open your Type Tool again, click below your other text and type out your other words. To change its color, highlight
it and click the color box at the top. Pick up another color of your poster and click OK. To adjust its size, as before, click your Move Tool and open your Transform Tool. I’ll position it and enlarge it. I’ll add another word using the font, “Geomancy Extra Bold”. We’ll add a gradient and a stroke. As before, double-click on an empty area of your Type
layer to open its Layer Style window. Click Gradient Overlay and the gradient bar. Click the lower, left Stop and the color box. Click on your poster to pick up a color and click
OK on the Color Picker. Click the lower, right Stop, the color box and click on another color. Click OK on the Color Picker and the Gradient Editor. Click “Stroke”. Click the color box
and pick up another color. Then, click OK on the Color Picker. I’ll make the size: 10 pixels and the Position: Inside. I’ll add one more word to my poster. This font is called, “Honey
Script Light”. I’ll open my Transform Tool and enlarge the text. I’d like to skew it. To do this, go to the anchor point on the middle of the right side and press and hold
Ctrl + Alt + Shift on Windows or Cmd + Option + Shift on a Mac, as you drag it up. I’ll
reposition it and press Enter or Return. Open its Layer Style window to add a drop shadow. Next, I’ll show you how to make your text easier to read by simplifying the area behind
it. Make your poster image active and open your Pen Tool. In this example, I want the
area behind the text to be a dark, brown color. So, I’ll make a work path surrounding the
area that I’ll be filling in with the new color. Right-click directly on the path and click “Make Selection”. Make the Feather Radius: 0 and click OK. Press “I” on your keyboard
to open your Eyedropper Tool and click on a neighboring color that you’d like to fill
the selection with. Notice, your foreground color changed to the color you want. To fill
in the selection with this color, press Alt or Option + Delete. Then, deselect it. Lastly, let’s add a white, outside border surrounding our poster. We don’t want to make it an inside
border because it’ll cut off important areas of our poster and be to close to our text.
We first need to expand the Width and Height of our document. To do this, go to Image and Canvas Size. Your current size is indicated here. In the Width and Height fields, add
another half inch to their sizes. Make the Canvas extension color: White. Then, click
OK. To fit your poster on your canvas, press Ctrl or Cmd + 0. This is Marty from Blue Lightning
TV. Thanks for watching!
Articles, Blog
Photoshop: How to Create a 1980s, Retro, “OUTRUN” Graphic from Scratch!
December 3, 2019
Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. I’m going to show you how to create a nostalgic, 1980s,
retro, “Outrun” graphic image. “Outrun” is 1980s-themed, retro-futuristic
visual art and music style associated with the electronic genres of electro, synthwave, futuresynth, new retrowave and vaporwave. Create a new document by pressing Ctrl or
Cmd + N or by going to File and New. Let’s make is width: 1200 pixels and its height
900 pixels, which has a 4 by 3 aspect ratio that replicates old-school, CRT TV monitors of the 80s and earlier. Make its resolution: 150 pixels per inch,
the color mode: RGB and 8 bits per channel. Click the color box and in the hexadecimal
filed, type in 141738, which gives us a very dark, muted blue. Then, press Enter or Return twice to close
both windows. If you want to zoom out of your document a little, press Ctrl or Cmd and the minus key on your keyboard. Next, we’ll create stars that we’ll place
over the background. Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer. We’ll fill it with black, but before we do,
check your foreground and background colors. If they’re not black and white respectively,
press “D” on your keyboard. Since black is our foreground color, press
Alt or Option + Delete. Go to Filter, Noise and “Add Noise”. The amount is 100%, Gaussian and Monochromatic. Go back to Filter , Blur and Gaussian Blur. Blur it 0.3 pixels. Open your Levels window by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + L. In the Input black level, type in 220 and the Input white level, type in 235. Change its Blend Mode to Screen. Make a new layer and open your Gradient Tool. Make sure the Linear gradient icon is active. Click the gradient bar to open the Gradient Editor. Click the Black to White thumbnail. Go to the bottom of your document and press
and hold Shift as you drag the tool up to the top and release. Holding Shift kept your cursor perfectly vertical. Go to Filter and Filter Gallery. Open the “Sketch” folder and click, “Halftone
Pattern”. The Pattern Type is “Line”, the Size is 6
and the Contrast is 50. Temporarily hide the top layer. We’ll make a new layer below it by Ctrl-clicking
or Cmd-clicking the New Layer icon. Open your “Elliptical Marquee Tool” and press
and hold Alt or Option + Shift as you drag out a circular selection approximately this size. Open back your Gradient Tool by pressing “G”
on your keyboard. Click the gradient bar and the lower, left Stop. Click the black box and in the hexadecimal
field, type in: FF397A and click OK. Click the lower, right Stop and the white box. Type in: FDED4E. Then, click OK on both windows. Press and hold Shift as you drag the tool
up and release. Make the top layer visible and open your Channels panel. If you don’t see it, go to Window and Channels. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click the RBG channel to
make a selection of its shape. Open back your Layers panel and drag the gradient
bars to the trash, since we have its selection. Invert the selection by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + Shift + I. Press the “Delete” key on your keyboard to delete the inside of the selection. Deselect it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + D. We’ll center it on its vertical axis by pressing “v” to open our Move Tool and pressing Ctrl or Cmd + A to select our document. At the top, click the “Align Vertical Centers”
icon. Then, deselect it. Click the “fx” icon and click “Outer Glow”
to see it in the Layer Style window. Click the color box and type in FF0072. Then, click OK on both windows or press Enter
or Return twice. Make a copy of the layer by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + J. Next, we’ll add the grid, but before we do, let’s save some space in the Layers panel by grouping the sunset layers into a folder. To do this, Shift-click the lower sunset layer
to make it active, as well, and press Ctrl or Cmd + G. I’ll name it, “Sunset”. Make a new layer above it. In this layer will be our grid. Go to Filter and “Vanishing Point”. Zoom out by pressing Ctrl or Cmd and the minus
key on your keyboard. Make sure the “Create Plane Tool” is active and go inside your document below and to the left of your sunset. Click and release. Go to the same location on the opposite side
of the sunset and click. Release and click approximately here. Release, go to the opposite side and click. If the grid remains blue, it means the perspective
is good, however, if the grid is red or yellow, adjust the corner until it turns blue. You can adjust the amount of lines in your
grid by dragging the Grid Size slider to the right or left. To save it to your Outrun document, click
this icon and click, “Render Grids to Photoshop”. It saved our grid to the empty layer we created. Double-click the grid layer to open its Layer Style window. Click “Color Overlay” and the small box. Type in: FF5ED7. Click “Outer Glow” and the small box. We’ll use the same color glow that we used
for our sunset. Make its Size: 40 pixels and the Range: 35%. Name the grid layer, “Grid” and collapse the
effects to save space. Next, we’ll create a reflection of our sunset
onto the grid. Make the Sunset folder active and make a copy of it. Rename the bottom folder, “Reflection” and convert it into a Smart Object, so we can modify it nondestructively. Open your Transform Tool by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. Go to the top, middle anchor point and when you see a vertical, double-arrow, press and hold “Shift” as you drag it down to approximately here. Then, release. Go to Filter, Blur and Gaussian Blur. Blur it 4 pixels. Go back to Filter, Distort and “ZigZag”. The Style is “Out from Center”, the Amount
is minus 100 and the Ridges is 20. Reduce its opacity to 50%. If you want to move your sunset up or down a bit, make the Sunset folder active and simply press the Up or Down arrow on your keyboard. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!
Articles, Blog
Photoshop: How to Create a CARTOON Portrait without the Filter Gallery & Oil Paint!
November 25, 2019
Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. I’m going to show you how to create a cartoon portrait from a photo without the use of the Oil Paint filter nor any of the filters in Filter Gallery. Before we begin, if you enjoy my tutorials,
please hit that “Subscribe” button to let you know as soon as I upload new ones. Open a photo of someone that you’d like to
use for this project. I downloaded this one from Shutterstock. The first step is to crop our photo. Open your Crop Tool. Click the “Clear” button to clear your Crop settings. For the width and height, type in 1500 pixels
each and for the resolution, type in 72 pixels per inch. Make sure you check, “Delete Cropped Pixels”. Drag the corners of the Crop’s bounding box
to size and position your subject. Then, press Enter or Return or click the check-mark at the top. To fit it back onto your canvas, press Ctrl
or Cmd + 0. Or you can zoom in or out incrementally by
pressing Ctrl or Cmd and the plus or the minus key on your keyboard. Next, we’ll separate our subject from its
background by making a selection around our subject. There are many ways to do this and your choice
should depend of the characteristics of your photo. For this example, I’ll use the Quick Selection Tool. If you’re using this tool as well, make it’s
radius 10 or 15 pixels. Drag the tool over your subject to select it. To remove selections outside your subject, press and hold Alt or Option as you drag over those areas. To check it, press “Q” on your keyboard to
see it as a quick mask. Revert it back into a selection by pressing “Q” again. To refine its edges, go to Select. If you’re using a version earlier than CC
2015.5, click “Refine Edge”. If you’re using a later version, click “Select and Mask”. If you prefer to use Refine Edge instead of
“Select and Mask”, Shift-click “Select and Mask”. I did in-depth tutorials on both of these
filters, so if you’d like to watch them, click their respective links in this video’s description
below the video. Check “Smart Radius”. This enables the brush to detect hard and
smooth edges. Brush over the edge of the hair. Check “Decontaminate Color”, to prevent background
colors from leaching into the edge of your subject. Keep its default amount to 50% and output
it to a “New Layer with Layer Mask”. We’ll convert our image into a Smart Object,
so we can modify it nondestructively. To do this, click the icon at the upper, right
and click, “Convert to Smart Object”. Go to Image, Adjustments and “Shadows/Highlights”. I’ll reduce the Shadows to zero, we can see
how it affects our image. Dragging the Shadows slider to the right lightens
the shadows based on their surrounding pixels. For this image, I’ll make the amount: 10%
and the Highlights: 20%, but feel free to adjust these amounts for your image. Go to Filter, Sharpen and “Unsharp Mask”. make the Amount 150% and the Radius: 2 pixels. To automatically enhance our image’s brightness and contrast, click the Adjustment Layer icon and click “Curves”. We want the curves adjustment layer to affect
only our subject, but because adjustment layers affect all the layers below them in the Layers
panel, we’ll want to clip it to our subject. To do this, click the Clipping Mask icon or
go to Layer and “Create Clipping Mask”. Alt-click or Option-click “Auto”, which opens
the “Auto Color Corrections Options” window. By default, the “Enhance Brightness and Contrast”
option is ticked. Click OK. To save space in the Layers panel, we’ll place
our subject and the Curves layer into a folder. To do this, Shift-click your subject to make it active as well, and press Ctrl or Cmd + G. I’ll name the folder, “Subject”. We’ll create a new layer below it by Ctrl-clicking
or Cmd-clicking the New Layer icon. In this empty layer, we’ll create our background. Click the foreground color and pick a color
for your background. You can always change it later if you want. Once you pick your color, click OK or press
Enter or Return. Now, our foreground color is the color we just picked. To fill the empty layer with that color, press
Alt or Option + Delete. Next, we’ll add an inner circle to the background
to make our cartoon pop. Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer. Open your “Elliptical Marquee Tool” and go
to the center of your subject. Before you do anything, press and hold Alt or Option + Shift and then, drag out a circle approximately this size. To move it in any direction, press any of
the arrow keys on your keyboard. Click your foreground color again and pick
a color for the inner circle. Fill the selection with the color you picked
and deselect it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + D. Let’s group these layers into a folder using the same steps that you used for the subject folder. Name this folder, “Background”. Temporarily hide the background folder and
make your subject folder active. Above it, we’ll create a composite snapshot
of our subject by pressing Alt + Ctrl + Shift + E on Windows or Option + Cmd + Shift + E on a Mac. Normally, I’d choose to make our subject into
a Smart Object instead of making it into a composite snapshot, but the next effect doesn’t
work on Smart Objects. Hide the “Subject” folder and go to Filter,
Stylize and “Diffuse”. Tick “Anisotropic” and click OK. So, you can see my image closer, I’ll press
“z” to open my Zoom Tool and drag it over an area. As you can see, there are there are distracting
horizontal patterns that appear over the subject. You’ll have these on your image, as well. We’ll get rid of them using the following steps. Go to Edit, Transform and “Rotate 90 degrees Clockwise”. We’ll repeat the anisotropic diffuse filter
by pressing Alt or Option + F. Go back to Edit, Transform and “Rotate 90 degrees Clockwise”. Again, repeat the Diffuse filter. Repeat these steps again and then one last time. Convert your image into a Smart Object, so
we can continue to add filters to it non-destructively. Make your background folder visible. Next, we’ll tighten up the edges of our subject. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click your subject to make
a selection of its shape. Go to Select, Modify and Contract. Contract it 1 pixel. Go back to Select, Modify and “Smooth”. Smooth it 5 pixels. Click the Layer Mask icon to make a layer
mask of the selection next to our subject. Make the subject active. Go to Filter, Noise and “Reduce Noise”. Make the Strength: 10, Preserve Details: 100%,
Reduce Color Noise: 0% and Sharpen Details: 80%. “Remove JPEG Artifact” is checked. Go back to Filter, Sharpen and “Unsharp Mask”. The Amount is 100%, the Radius is 2 pixels
and the Threshold is 0 levels. Next, we’ll smooth out the skin. Go to Filter, Blur and “Surface Blur”. The Radius is 30 pixels and the Threshold is 20 levels. We’ll brighten the shadows again by going
to Image, Adjustments and “Shadows/Highlights”. Make the Shadows amount: 20% and the Highlights: 10%. Next, we’ll make it pop more by increasing its contrast. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and click “Levels”. Then, clip it to your subject. Drag the Input Highlight slider to approximately
where the histogram starts to rise and the Input Shadow slider to a point where you like the look of the shadows. Next, we’ll add a thin border around the perimeter
of our subject. Make a new layer and Ctrl-click or Cmd-click
the layer mask to make a selection of its shape. Go to Select and click “Select and Mask” or
Shift-click it to open Refine Edge. Smooth it 50, make the Contrast: 100% and
Shift the Edge minus 5%. Go to Edit and “Stroke:. Make the Width: 6 pixels. Click the color box and click the darkest
color of your image to pick up its color. Make its Location: “Center” and click OK. Then, deselect it. Lastly, we’ll make our colors more vibrant. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and click, “Vibrance”. Drag the Vibrance all the way to 100%. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!
Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV with another Photoshop quick tip. If you’re using CS6 or later, I’m going to
show you how to automatically stitch or combine images together that have very different brightness,
contrast, color and tone. Auto-Blend doesn’t work with Smart Objects,
video layers, 3D layers, or background layers. For this example, I’m going to stitch the
face from this guy onto her face and use Auto Blend to blend them together. I downloaded both of these photos from Shutterstock. This tutorial is for those who are already
familiar with the basic functions of Photoshop. As I mentioned, I’ll use this photo as the
base. Since the outside corners of her eyebrows
extend pretty far, I’ll remove them, but first I’ll make a copy of the layer by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + J, so I always have the original photo intact. If you have areas in your base image that
you want to remove, open your Patch Tool and draw around the area you want to remove. Drag the selected source area to a destination
area that you want to use to repair it. To deselect it, press Ctrl or Cmd + D. I’ll
repeat this with the other eyebrow. Open your other image. We’ll make a selection around the area that
you want to patch onto your base image. Open the Lasso Tool and make sure “Feather”
is 0 pixels. Draw around the area that you want to place
onto your base image. Open your Move Tool by pressing “v” on your keyboard and drag it onto the tab of your base image. Drag it down and release. To resize and reposition it, open your Transform
Tool by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. Position and resize it over the base image. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click the top layer to make
a selection of its shape. Go to Select, Modify and “Contract”. I’ll contract it 10 pixels. Depending on your document’s size and resolution,
you may want to adjust the amount. Make Layer 1 active and press the “Delete”
key to delete inside the contracted selection. Press Ctrl or Cmd + D to deselect it. Shift-click the top layer to make it active,
as well, and go to Edit and “Auto-Blend Layers”. Since we’re blending stacked layers, tick
“Stack Images”. Make sure “Seamless Tones and Colors” is checked
and if you’re using a later version of Photoshop, check “Content Aware Fill Transparent Areas”
just to ensure that all areas will be filled and blended well. If you see this warning, just click OK. Auto-Blend applied layer masks as needed to
each layer to mask out over or underexposed areas, as well as, mask out content differences
to create a relatively seamless composite. Since we have the composite layer, we can
hide the layers with their layer masks. Next, we’ll adjust our image’s brightness
and contrast. Scroll to the top of the Layers panel and
click the Adjustment Layer icon. Click “Levels”. We want the adjustment layer to restrict itself
to affect just the composite layer below it. To do this, click the Clipping Mask icon or
press Alt + Ctrl + G on Windows or Option + Cmd + G on a Mac. You can also go to Layer and “Create Clipping Mask”. For this particular image, I’ll drag the Input
Mid-tone slider to the right to darken the mid-tones, however, feel free to adjust the
input settings for your image. If you want to restore the background or any
other area from your original base image – no problem. Make the Levels layer mask active. We’ll brush in black over it, which will mask
out the areas we brightened or darkened. Open your Brush Tool and make sure your foreground
color is black. Open your Brush picker and pick a soft, round brush. We’ll adjust its size in a moment. Make its Hardness 0% and the Opacity & Flow
both 100%. To make your brush bigger or smaller, make
sure your CapsLock key is off and press the right or left bracket key on your keyboard. Now, brush over the background and any other areas you’d like to restore from the original base photo. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!
Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. I’m going to show you how to quickly create
a face made of stars in deep space from a photo. Before we begin, if you’re not already a subscriber
to Blue Lightning TV, click that small “Subscribe” button at the lower, right corner to let you
know as soon as I upload new Photoshop tutorials. If you haven’t yet checked out my merchandise
on Redbubble, click the card at the upper, right or the link in my video’s description
to see my portfolio of posters, t-shirts, mugs, pillows and so much more. Your purchases will be helping to support
my channel and keeping my tutorials free. Open a photo of a face that you’d like to
use for this project. I downloaded this one from Shutterstock. The first step is to create a new document. Press Ctrl or Cmd + N or go to File and New. Make its With: 1920 pixels, its Height: 1080
pixels and its resolution: 150 pixels per inch. The background is black. We’ll convert it into a Smart Object, so when we add filters to it, we’ll be able to adjust the filters at any time. Click the icon at the upper right of the Layers
panel and click “Convert to Smart Filter”. Go to Filter, Noise and “Add Noise”. Make the amount: 100%, Gaussian and Monochromatic. Go back to Filter, Blue and Gaussian Blur. Blur it 0.3 pixels. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and click
“Levels”. In the Input Shadow field, type in 200 and
in the Input Highlight field, type in 243. Click the layer to make it active and change
its Blend Mode to Soft Light. Let’s save space in the Layers panel by collapsing
the effects. We’ll temporarily place our subject on top
of the Levels layer. Make the Levels layer active and open your subject. With your Move Tool active, drag the subject
onto the tab of your stars document. Without releasing your mouse or pen, drag
it down and release. To resize and position it, open your Transform
Tool by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. If you’re CC 2019, go to a corner and when you see a diagonal, double-arrow, press and hold Alt
or Option + Shift as you drag it in or out. If you’re using C 2019 or later, just press
Alt or Option as you drag it. If you want to reposition it, go inside the
bounding box and drag your subject. Then, press Enter or Return. Next, we’ll separate our subject from the
background by making a selection around our subject. There are many ways to do this, but for this
example, I’ll use the Quick Selection Tool. If you’re using this tool as well, drag it
over the subject to select it. To remove unwanted areas, press and hold Alt
or Option as you drag over those areas. Once you’ve made a selection around the subject,
click the Layer Mask icon to make a layer mask of the selection next to your subject. Convert it to a Smart Object and drag it below the stars. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and click,
“Black & White”. Make your subject active and go to Filter,
Sharpen and Unsharp Mask. I’ll make the amount: 500%, the Radius: 1
pixel and the Threshold: 0 levels. Since every photo is different, you may want
to adjust these amounts for YOUR image. Remember, you can always come back to it later. Double-click an empty area of the subject’s
layer to open its Layer Style window. Click “Outer Glow”. The Blend Mode is Normal, the Opacity is 70%,
the Noise is 100% and the color is white. The Technique is Softer, the Spread is 0 and
the Size is 20 pixels. The Contour is linear and the Range is 50%. Change the Blend Mode to “Dissolve” and reduce
its opacity to 25%. Make the Levels layer active and click the
New Layer icon to make a new layer. In this empty layer, we’ll make a composite
snapshot of our visible image. Press Alt + Ctrl + Shift + E on Windows or
Option + Cmd + Shift + E on a Mac. Open your Channels panel. If you don’t see it, go to Window and Channels. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click the RGB channel to
make a selection of the stars. Now that we have a selection of the stars,
open back your Layers panel and drag the composite snapshot to the trash, since we don’t need
it anymore. Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer. We’ll fill the selection with white, but before
we do, check your foreground and background colors. If they aren’t black and white respectively,
press “D” on your keyboard. Since white is our background color, press
Ctrl or Cmd + Delete. This layer is now filled with stars. You can’t see it now because they’re too
small to see. Deselect it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + D. Double-click an empty area of the layer to open its Layer Style window. Click “Outer Glow”. The Blend Mode is Normal, the Opacity is 30%
and the Noise is 100%. The Spread is 0 and the Size is 30 pixels. The Range is 50%. Lastly, we’ll brighten our overall image by clicking the Adjustment Layer icon and clicking “Levels” again. Type into the Input Highlights field, 150. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!
Articles, Blog
Photoshop: Warp Speed!!! Create the Look HYPER-DRIVE in Deep Space (CS6+)
November 9, 2019
Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. I’m going to show you how to create the awesome
look of hyper-drive in deep space. Before we begin, if you’re not already a subscriber
to my channel, click that small “Subscribe” button at the lower, right corner to let you
know as soon as I upload new Photoshop tutorials. Create a new document by pressing Ctrl or
Cmd + N or by going to File and New. Make its Width: 1920 pixels, its Height: 1080 pixels and its Resolution: 150 pixels per inch. The Color Mode is RGB and 8 bits per Channel. Click the box and pick black. We’ll convert the black background into a
Smart Object, so if we want to, we can adjust the filters that we’ll be adding to it at any time. Click the icon at the upper, right of the
Layers panel and click, “Convert to Smart Object”. Go to Filter, Noise and “Add Noise”. Make the Amount 100%, Uniform and Monochromatic. Go back to Filter, Blur and Gaussian Blur. Blur it point 5 pixels. Open Levels by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + L. In
the Input Shadow field, type in 143 and in the Input Highlight field, type in 150. Go back to Filter and Blur again and this
time, click “Radial Blur”. Make the Amount 15, Zoom and Best. We’ll brighten our image by click the Adjustment
Layer icon and click “Levels”. In the Input Shadow field, type in 8 and in
the Input Highlight field, type in 48. Next, we’ll exaggerate its perspective. Make “Layer 0” active and go to Filter and
Lens Correction. Click the “Custom” tab and drag the “Remove
Distortion” slider to plus 100. Repeat the filter by press Alt + Ctrl + F
on Windows or Option + Cmd + F on a Mac. Click the Custom tab and drag the Remove Distortion
again to plus 100. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and click
“Hue/Saturation”. Check “Colorize”. For the Hue, type in 200 and for the Saturation,
type in 100. Make Layer 0 active. To save space in the Layers panel, let’s collapse
the effects by clicking the small arrow. Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer. Change the empty layer’s Blend Mode to “Color
Dodge”. Open the Brush Tool and Brush Picker. Pick a soft, round brush. Make its size 200 pixels, the Hardness is
0%, the Opacity: 10% & Flow: 100%. Click the foreground color to open the Color
Picker. In the hexadecimal field, type in 227AFF. Then, click OK or press Enter or Return. Place your cursor outside your document approximately
here and press and hold Shift as you drag across your mouse or pen. Holding Shift kept your cursor perfectly horizontal. If you want to redo the line, press Ctrl or
Cmd + z to undo your last step. Release your cursor and place it approximately
here. Brush another line across your document. Convert this layer into a Smart Object, so
we can modify it non-destructively. Go to Filter, Distort and “Polar Coordinates”. Tick, “Rectangular to Polar” and click OK. Go back to Filter, Blur and “Gaussian Blur”. Blur it 100 pixels. We’ll convert our visible image into a Smart
Object by making the top adjustment layer active, scrolling to the bottom and Shift-clicking
the bottom layer to make all the layers active. Then, convert all the layers into one Smart Object. Make a copy of it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd
+ J. Hide the copy and make the bottom layer active. If you’re using versions CS6 or CC, go to
Filter, Blur and Iris Blur. If you’re using CC 2014 or later, go to Filter,
Blur Gallery and Iris Blur. I did an in-depth tutorial of the Iris Blur,
so if you’d like to watch it, its link is in my video’s description below. If you don’t see the Iris Blur shape outline, press Ctrl or Cmd + H. Go just above the top, middle dot. These dots are called “Ellipse Handles”. When you see a curved, double-arrow, drag
it up a bit past the top of your image. Drag one of the sides out as well a bit past
the document. You’ll notice there are 4 inside blue dots. These are called “Feather handles”. Between the Feather Handles and the Ellipse
Handles is where the blur starts and ends. Dragging one of the Feather handles drags
all of them at the same time. Drag it to approximately here. Blur it 10 pixels and in the Effects panel, make the “Light Bokeh”: 50 and the Light Range: 0 and 255. Then, click OK at the top. Make the copy visible and active. Go to Filter, Blur and Gaussian Blur. Blur it 36 pixels. We’ll brighten it by clicking the Adjustment
layer icon and clicking “Levels”. We want the adjustment layer to affect only
the blurred layer below it. To do this, we need to clip it or restrict
it to the blurred layer. Click the “Clipping Mask” icon or press Alt
+ Ctrl +G on Windows or Option + Cmd + G on a Mac. You can also go to Layer and “Create Clipping Mask”. In the Input Highlight field, type in 22. Go to Filter, Render and Clouds. Make the “Levels 1” copy active and click
the Layer Mask icon to make a layer mask next to the active layer. Open your “Elliptical Marquee Tool” and go
to a corner. Drag your cursor to the opposite corner and release. Go to Select, Modify and Feather. Feather it 200 pixels. We want to fill the inside of the selection
with black, which will essentially fill that area of the layer mask with black. Before we do, check your foreground and background colors. If they’re white and black respectively like
mine are, press Ctrl or Cmd + Delete to fill the selection with black. However, if the colors are inverted, press
Alt or Option + Delete. Your layer mask should have a soft, black
elliptical shape inside it. The black area is essentially masking out
the middle of the blurred copy, while the white area is revealing its outer edges. Deselect it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + D. Next,
we’ll brighten our entire image. Make the top adjustment layer active. Click the Adjustment Layer icon and click
“Levels” again. Since we want to brighten our entire image,
we won’t clip it. In the Input Highlight field, type in 190. Lastly, we’ll enlarge our image to crop off
any bloomed out areas we don’t want. To do this, scroll to the bottom of the Layers
panel and Shift-click the bottom layer to make all the layers active. Open your Transform Tool by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + T. If you see this message, just click OK. If you’re using a version earlier than CC
2019, go to a corner and when you see a diagonal, double-arrow, press and hold Alt or Option
+ Shift as you drag it out until you no longer see the bloomed edges. If you’re using CC 2019 or later, just press
Alt or Option as you drag it. Then, press Enter or Return. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!