Articles, Blog

Landscape Photo Editing Workflow – Part 1 Photo Assessment

August 17, 2019


hello I’m Robin Whalley
welcome to Lenscraft today we’re starting something completely different
I’m going to be publishing a miniseries about how I edit some of my photos and
this miniseries is going to be slightly shorter videos published a little bit
more frequently the reason I’m doing this is I’ve been getting a lot of
questions about my workflow on the lens craft Channel I tend to demonstrate lots
of different tools and techniques for editing photos and the frequent question
I get asked is do I use all these tools and the answer to that is yes I do
I only demonstrate the tools that I actually use but what I don’t do is use
every tool for every image instead I pick the best tool that suits the job at
hand so the idea of this workflow series is to demonstrate typical editing I
might go through with an image so the image you can see on screen is the one
that we’re going to build up over the next few videos but this is the finished
image and it didn’t start life looking like this let’s have a look at what the
starting raw image looked like as you can see it’s quite different I shot this
on the 12th of August 2019 depending on when you’ve watching this video that
sign for two days ago or a lot longer it was taken about 10 minutes after sunset
the reason I waited that long was because the Sun was quite intensive as
you can see it’s over this side of the frame and I was shooting towards it even
with several neutral density graduated filters on there I couldn’t actually
expose properly for the ground and the hills when the Sun was above the horizon
so I needed to wait the other thing is when you’re shooting after sunset when
the Sun has didn’t below had the horizon it actually reduces the contrast level
in the foreground so you can actually open up and show a nicer image now
before we get on to looking at the camera details and a few facts about the
image I want to make a point good image editing starts before you take
the shot you need to visualize how you want the finished image to look before
you start to take the shot if you don’t do that you can’t select things like the
camera settings the accessories to use and you don’t capture the right image
that you can then refine and build through the photo editing so it’s
critical when you’re lining up to take your shot stop and think for five
minutes about how you want that shot to look at the end once you’ve done that
you’ll find you can set the camera much more easily so let’s look at the camera
details if I go into the file info in Photoshop you’ll be able to see
information about the camera and you can see here that it’s a fuji film camera
it was the xt3 model which is a fairly recent release and I had a Fuji lens on
there which was the 16 255 F 2.8 lens this lens suffers from being too sharp
it can actually make the images look a little bit unreal and if you look at the
heather here it just seems that little bit too sharp so I’m going to want to
soften that later in the post-processing in terms of the shutter speed aperture
and so forth I had f-14 to make sure that I got a good depth of field and
possibly f-14s a little bit more than I needed but I was just making sure that I
did have the full depth of field on this image now I also have the ISO set to 160
which is the lowest ISO that this camera produces unless you go to one of the
extended ISOs now I don’t tend to do that I usually shoot at the lowest ISO
which is the base ISO and I do that trying to minimize noise and maximize
dynamic range in the image capture as you can see that produced an exposure of
not 0.9 seconds so I had to use a tripod and I had that mounted fairly low so
that I would say it was around waist height to get this shot
because I was using the tripod I also used the cable release to release the
shutter now if I’d use my finger to release the shutter I would definitely
have produced some sort of camera shake and the image wouldn’t have been quite
as sharp as it is and I also risk ruining the image just by shaking it so
a cable release is an absolute essential if you’re going to be shooting
landscapes on a tripod the other thing I did was use a neutral density graduated
filter so I placed the top half of the filter over here on the sky and I lined
it up as best I could on the horizon now the filter I was using was a case glass
filter and it was the soft nd gratz now those tend to be quite soft so the sky
here is just a little bit blown out but we’ll fix that because there’s no detail
in there and we’ll reduce that down later you can see here that the sky
hasn’t exposed quite as much because we’re using a wide-angle lens and it’s
around 90 degrees away from where the Sun actually is so we need to somehow
even out the exposure in the sky here we’ve also got a dark patch here whether
it’s the soft grad was cutting over the horizon so it probably came down to
around here on the image so I need to lighten these hills here in terms of
point of focus I was focusing just here in the foreground and that together with
the f-14 gave me enough depth of field to get this foreground Heather in sharp
focus and the distant hills if I just zoom this to 100% magnification you can
i josu me to 200 you can see what I mean I’ve got just enough depth of field
there and I’ve also got a nice sharp foreground as well with everything in
focus now the camera was set to shoot in RAW
format and I do that because it gives me the greatest flexibility when they come
to editing the image the other thing is I had become Recep to use auto white
balance so what it’s done is he’s made the image rather blue though I’m not
worried about that because I can correct it in post-processing the other thing I
want to do though is make sure that I have a lot of magenta in the image in
terms of assessing the other problems in the image although the contrast is
reduced because I’m shooting after sunset it’s still quite a high contrast
image in the foreground areas here so I want to address that and we’ll need to
open up the shadows just a little bit I also want to darken the Heather very
slightly just to bring out that perkily tone in there and as I said earlier it’s
suffering just a little bit from being ever so slightly too sharp so I want to
create a glowing effect using something called the Orton effect now I’m not
going to use the artifact and globally you’ll see how we do that when I get to
that stage of the editing so that’s it for this video in the next video which
are published shortly we’re going to be looking at the raw conversion using
capture 1 the only question I want to leave you with do you like the idea of a
miniseries if you do let me know in the comments below I’m really interested to
find out what you think and whether or not this is the sort of thing you’d like
to see in the future thanks for watching Lenscraft and Robin Whalley I’ll see
you in the next video

35 Comments

  • Reply Dave Cook August 14, 2019 at 4:41 pm

    Yes, please.

  • Reply Katarzyna Knitter August 14, 2019 at 4:45 pm

    Awesome video, can't wait for the next one!

  • Reply Dan Buchman August 14, 2019 at 4:52 pm

    Absolutely continue with the series. You’re a fantastic teacher and these shorter videos are just right.
    Well done!

  • Reply usedg August 14, 2019 at 4:53 pm

    Thank you for this .

    Yes I like the idea of the workflow series .
    I too shoot the XT3 and I use Nisi filters .
    I note that you took it in aperture priority mode rather than manual . I would have used manual . I see your histogram with the highlight off to the right . Even in the finished image the lake looks too bright .

    I was watching with interest then became dismayed . Why Capture 1 ? These days there is nothing wrong with Lightroom . I use Lightroom Classic and Photoshop. I have tried C1 and found zero benefits . It seems madness for people like me …a hobbyist photographer to pay Adobe and C1 .

    Disappointed

  • Reply Dave Eagle August 14, 2019 at 4:56 pm

    I like the idea of the short series, seems to allow more content around small , possible critical considerations/decisions that might otherwise get lost in the 'cover everything' in one video approach.

  • Reply Peter Baddiley August 14, 2019 at 5:14 pm

    Enjoyed this very informative presentation. Looking forward to the series. Thank you.

  • Reply Les Hillier August 14, 2019 at 6:21 pm

    Thank you Robin, great video. Looking forward to the next one.

  • Reply John Rose August 14, 2019 at 6:26 pm

    Absolutely spot on Robin. Excellent idea for a series, very helpful.

  • Reply David Bailey August 14, 2019 at 6:45 pm

    Great idea, a mini series. Thanks Robin.

  • Reply Simon Harrison August 14, 2019 at 6:48 pm

    Definitely up for a mini series Robin!

  • Reply Janice Payne August 14, 2019 at 7:26 pm

    Great idea, I find shorter videos that are more concentrated much easier to fit in around my schedule

  • Reply Chuck Johnson August 14, 2019 at 7:27 pm

    I enjoyed this, as I do all of your tutorials. A series on workflow is a great idea; am looking forward to future episodes.

  • Reply Clifford Mcfarlane August 14, 2019 at 9:07 pm

    Yes, short and frequent does it for me.

  • Reply Lightfiend August 14, 2019 at 9:34 pm

    Good idea – please set this up so that a viewer can look at a specific episode, and importantly, as a topic/case-study episode A to Z.

  • Reply Rick Russell August 14, 2019 at 10:50 pm

    I'm very interested in viewing your mini series on your landscape photo workflow.

  • Reply mike Kay August 15, 2019 at 2:14 am

    Thanks Robin, the mini series workflow sounds great. However, a bit disappointing that this first video opens in Photoshop and the next you mentioned another programme (which I don't have). Will I be able to follow using Lightroom and Photoshop?
    Mike in Oz

  • Reply Wei Chong August 15, 2019 at 2:26 am

    I like this mini-series format, because you've organized it (for the 1st part) so well that it naturally leads to the second, which I intend to also watch. Your workflow of assessing what you would need to do in post was excellent, being complete, without being too anal. I would like to see the difference in "desharpening" the heather, which is counter-intuitive.

  • Reply Larry Palmer August 15, 2019 at 4:54 am

    This is very much what I have been wanting to see. I hope you can give suggestions as the the order and choice of tools for development and editing. Excellent beginning, thank you.

  • Reply John Collins August 15, 2019 at 6:34 am

    Yes Robin,I would like to see how you process a Raw file,although I would appreciate if you could give various options i.e. Nik / Affinity to achieve the same result as Capture One.Regarding a cable release,why not a inbuilt delay timer?Last question,was stacking an option?

  • Reply usedg August 15, 2019 at 8:07 am

    Hi …another query on this please . You mention that the 16-55 is too sharp when you showed us the image in Photoshop . You also mention that you use C1 as your raw converter . Could it be that it is too sharp because of what C1 has done too it in conversion ?I use Adobe my XT3 …no problems although sometimes I might use Topaz Denoise in either Denoise or Aiclear mode.

  • Reply Karen Stanley August 15, 2019 at 8:51 am

    Brilliant idea. Really looking forward to it.

  • Reply Jane Andrew August 15, 2019 at 9:09 am

    Yes please. Breaking workflow down into a mini series is a great idea.

  • Reply They Caged Non August 15, 2019 at 10:35 am

    Just subscribed Robin, looking forward to following this.

  • Reply Ludo Polleunis August 15, 2019 at 10:43 am

    Really an excellent idea….

  • Reply Vincent Lerie August 15, 2019 at 10:46 am

    Great idea.

  • Reply Roger Walton August 15, 2019 at 11:22 am

    Excellent idea Robin.

  • Reply Steve Hallam August 15, 2019 at 11:29 pm

    Good idea, let's see how it pans out.

  • Reply mainline464 August 16, 2019 at 6:20 am

    Yes mini series, a very good idea

  • Reply ELF EVANS August 16, 2019 at 7:48 am

    A splendid idea.

  • Reply Alan Edwards August 16, 2019 at 10:43 am

    Love the concept, can't wait for the next episode.

  • Reply Andy Chattaway August 16, 2019 at 10:57 am

    Very excited about this series Robin – thanks mate. Cameras and lens quality are not what they used to be. Lens's too sharp so you have to soften the image in PS – Fuji – What were you thinking? 😉

  • Reply John Wright August 16, 2019 at 6:20 pm

    A very interesting and informative video. Yes I would like to see more of these.

  • Reply John Stubbs August 16, 2019 at 8:39 pm

    I think the mini series is a good idea, always like your videos and as I have a similar image in the Peak District on the 12th will find is useful as well, though I will use lLightroom and Nik

  • Reply Richard Rostant August 17, 2019 at 3:25 am

    Definitely like this format.

  • Reply Gordon Macgregor August 17, 2019 at 1:32 pm

    Very much like your idea for the mini series Robin, particularly as a Fuji user I have also adopted Capture One.

  • Leave a Reply