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How to Make Film Lightroom Presets [+5 FREE PRESETS]

September 30, 2019


(relaxed electronic music) – [Denny] Hello and
welcome to this episode of Denny’s Tips. In this video, I’ll show
you how to create your own film light preset in Adobe Lightroom. But instead of creating
a single specific look, you will learn how to
achieve common film effects using a step-by-step method. So whether you want something
that’s natural and subtle or faded and strong, we will learn how to achieve
the look that you want. You will also learn
some tips on how to keep your preset lightweight
with minimal impact on Lightroom’s performance. And about settings you
shouldn’t touch at all. By the end of this video,
you will know how to create a high quality preset
that you can even sell. (relaxed electronic music) If you wanna take the
road to the next level, try out some of my Photoshop
actions and Lightroom presets at sparklestock.com There are gigabytes of presets,
actions, product mockups, and graphics for you to download. I’m constantly updating the
website with new products. Check it out at sparklestock.com and use the promo code
“denny” for 10% off. Let’s start with the tones. For this, we’ll be using the tone curve. The tone curve in Lightroom has two modes. You want to be in the point curve mode, which you can switch to by
clicking on this button. The point curve mode gives you much more flexibility and control. So not everyone is fluent
with the tone curve. If you already know how to use it, you can create any tone curve you like. But for this tutorial, I will show a technique that
makes it simple for beginners. First, add three points
to the line like this. Try to make the points align with the grid in the background. Now you should have a
total of five points. One for the blacks, shadows, midtones, highlights, and whites. You can drag any of the points
up and down to adjust them. If you want to make the blacks
brighter for a faded look, you can drag the bottom
left point upwards. If you want to darken the shadows, you can drag the second point downwards. The same pattern for
the rest of the points. To make things easier, here are some common tone
curves that people use. (relaxed electronic music) One of the main
characteristics of film looks is the color shifting. Now, just to be clear, this is not for tinting
the shadows or highlights. I will show you how to do that later. This is simply to shift the colors. And we’re gonna start off with the hue, then the lightness, and
then finally the saturation. I usually like to start off
with the reds and oranges because those hues affect the skin tones. With these colors, we should
make very small changes. I don’t usually go more than
5% with the reds and oranges. For the blues and greens, you
can make stronger adjustments. I’m going to shift the
greens towards the blues and the blues towards the greens. Keep adjusting the colors until you get the look that you like. But also keep in mind that right now we’re just focusing on the hue. We’ll do luminance and
saturation afterwards. (relaxed electronic music) After adjusting the hue, we
can adjust the luminance. The reason we are adjusting the luminance before the saturation, is because it is easier and
more precise to do it first. The luminance basically affects how bright or dark the color is. For example, if you want to
make the skies and water darker, you can darken the blues and cyans. Now, some of you might be asking, “How is this different than brightening “or darkening with the tone curve?” The answer is that the tone
curve let’s you make areas brighter or darker based
on their brightness, while the luminance let’s you make areas brighter or darker based on their color. If you have any programming experience, you can think of it as
an if and then statement. (relaxed electronic music) Anyways, just like with the hue, you wanna be careful with the
red and orange adjustments because those colors
can affect skin tones. (relaxed electronic music) Finally, we’re going to
adjust the saturation. This is the easiest one to adjust, which is why we saved it for last. Adjust the settings just like what you did with the two other color adjustments. However, if you’re going to significantly increase or decrease the
saturation for all of the colors, it’s best to make those adjustments with the saturation slider first and then make the smaller changes in the individual color
saturation setting. It just makes it easier to
treat the preset afterwards. (relaxed electronic music) Now that we are done with the color, we can tint the highlights and shadows. There’s two ways to do this. We can do it with the
split toning adjustment, which is easier, but it’s
also not that flexible. Basically, you pick a color
for the highlights and shadows, adjust the saturation,
and then the balance. If you need more flexibility, the better way of doing this
is with the RGB tone curve. In your tone curve adjustment, you can switch your red,
green, or blue channel from the dropdown menu here. But when it comes to the RGB tone curve, most people think that
it’s really hard to use. It’s not that hard, it just looks hard because
the interface for it hasn’t been updated. But the tool can be much easier to use if you imagine that the
tone curve looks like this. Just to be clear, you can’t actually make
Lightroom look like this. I just superimposed this to show you how you should
be imagining the tone curves. For the red channel, imagine
that it looks like this. For the green channel, imagine
that it looks like this. Same thing for the blue channel. By memorizing and imagining this whenever you use a tone curve, it’ll be much easier to use. For example, if you
want to give your photo that green tint in the shadows, like with the Fuji Superia 1600 film, then switch to the green channel and lift the blacks up like this. Or if you want something
more towards teal, which is between blue and green, you can also lift the
blacks in the blue channel. You can add more points, but for beginners I would
recommend sticking to a total of five points per channel and keeping the horizontal position in line with the grid in the background. If you want to learn more
about RGB tone curve, I highly recommend watching my video on how to use the tone chart
technique in Photoshop. And you can find a link to that in the video description below. When you’re done, you can save your preset by clicking on the plus
sign in the presets panel. Give your preset a name and checkmark only the
settings that you use. You also want to make sure
that the processed version is checked as well. Now you can apply this preset
to any photo you’d like. While you can create Lightroom presets with nearly every developed setting, there are some that you should avoid. The first settings to avoid are the white balance and exposure. Your presets should never
touch these settings and here’s why. Most people start off by fixing the white balance and exposure. For a large catalog, this
can take a lot of time. When they apply your preset, your preset will override their white balance exposure setting, forcing to do all of their
retouching from scratch. That’s a huge waste of time. Instead, you can do
this in the tone curve. To make it brighter, simply
nudge the points upwards. For the white balance, you can do it with the
green and blue channels. The blue channel is similar
to a temperature setting and the green channel is
similar to a tint setting. Another area to avoid is the
camera calibration section. A lot of people do require access to this. If you need to adjust the hue, you can always do it from the HSL panel. Finally, avoid excessive develop settings. The more settings you use, the
slower your preset will be. A preset with just the tone curves will render incredibly
fast, even on video clips. But if you create a preset that uses nearly every develop setting, not only is it slower to render, it will reduce the catalog’s performance. (relaxed electronic music) Hey, thanks for watching this video. If you liked it, please comment
and hit the like button. Now, you might notice that
the effects that I applied are stronger than usual. And that’s why you can see the difference when we’re making the adjustments. But if that has happened to you and you made a preset that’s too strong and you want to fade it out, there’s a great plugin called
Fader by Capture Monkey. Essentially, it let’s you set
an opacity for your preset. So if your preset is too strong and you want to make it 50% opacity, you can do it very
easily with that plugin. Now, the plugin is shareware, so if you like it and you use it a lot, please remember to step
up for the developer and register it. I think he’s only asking for ten dollars, which is an amazing price. Anyways, I hope you guys
have an amazing day. Let me know what you think
in the comments below and I’ll see you in the next video.

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